Written By: Mehreen Umer
This fall season, over a hundred designers launched their SS24 collections in one of the world capitals of fashion, Paris, France. Kicking off on September 26th, the runway shows take place until October 3rd, with dozens of events occurring daily. Much like past fashion weeks, this event encompassed bold statements and dramatic silhouettes. Along with iconic designers such as Christian Dior, Schiaparelli, Acne Studios, Givenchy, and Saint Laurent putting on their established and illustrious demonstrations, this Paris Fashion Week also debuted upcoming designers such as Peter Do, Christopher Esber, Marni, and dozens more.
Christian Dior SS24
Beginning with the veteran designer Christian Dior, this was one event that gained significant traction, with a series of monochromatic pieces against vibrant pink and yellow walls. Crafted by Dior’s latest creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, this collection took inspiration from feminist ideals and beliefs by exploring values from past female icons and calling out instances of sexism and misogyny. Within the collection, we saw an abstract take on the feminine form, as Chiuri entangled typical female and male styles with the use of straighter jackets, open bottoms, lace details, and asymmetrical, off-one-shoulder neckline.
Famed Italian design house Schiaparelli also put on an undeniably spectacular show, showcasing a nuanced collection focused on the founder’s original intent of incorporating surrealistic and whimsical attributes into fashion. Under the lead of Daniel Roseberry, the current creative director, this SS24 exhibition aimed to “make the everyday come to more vivid, more surprising life.” This was present in the use of crustacean motifs, a callback to Elsa Schiaparelli’s custom Salvador Dali dress for the Duchess of Windsor in 1937. Furthermore, Roseberry incorporated elevated fabrics, heavy gold embellishments, and reimagined, humorous takes on classic silhouettes.
Mugler also returned to the runway stage this season, showcasing a dramatic, theatrical, and provocative presentation of their Spring/Summer 2024 line. With director Casey Cadawaller taking inspiration from underwater species like octopus and jellyfish, this collection was very much focused on fluidity and movement. While the lineup flaunted bold shoulders, glamorous corsets, and sharp cutouts, Anok Yai was the talk of the night as she closed the show in a billowing black and gold ensemble across the runway. As Paris Fashion Week came to a close on the day of this show, Mugler ensured it ended on the highest note.
Paris Fashion Week Newcomers
Moving on from these esteemed designers, this Paris Fashion Week introduced various newcomers to their lineup, including newer labels Peter Do and Christopher Esber. Do’s spring line “PARIS” unveiled an effortless chic set comprising of a neutral color palette and shocking reds, while featuring cropped blazers and exaggerated shoulders. Similarly, Australian designer Christopher Esber premiered his first ever scheduled PFW show showcasing his draping expertise and unique whimsical inspirations.
As always, Paris Fashion Week comes at a time for fashion industry members and enthusiasts alike to appreciate the artistry of our current designers. With both surrealistic approaches as well as redefined businesswear, this SS24 season will inevitably be one reviewed for ages to come.